I
never visited Carlow on my original trip. It is
only one hour's drive away from Wexford, where I
have spent many months living over the years. And
I probably wouldn't have visited Carlow if it hadn't
been for the Eigse Arts Festival.
I
decided this would be a good opportunity to promote
my book. So I rolled into town in the Scooby Van
and went off in search of the Otterholt Riverside
Hostel. As you approach the hostel on the road,
the front looks shoddy and very unwelcoming. Being
accustomed to staying in shoddy hostels over the
years this didn't really put me off.
However,
as I turned into the car park and made my way through
the gates and into the hostel's gardens I soon discovered
that this place was far from shoddy. The rear of
the house was in far better condition, the large
garden was impeccably maintained and the beautiful
River Barrow ran through the adjacent field. A small
sign on the grass bore the words:
Welcome
to Otterholt
I
drove on to the small parking area by the entrance
to reception and found a space amongst the array
of large white antique Rolls Royce and Bentley cars.
It turned out that one of the owners, two brothers,
rents them for weddings.
At
the door I was greeted by an aging Scotsman called
Ian. Ian not only shared my name but also my love
for riding motorcycles. Even at his age he still
rode one. I suddenly had a glimpse of myself as
an old man, working in a hostel, still riding a
motorbike, and with only twenty Euros to last me
all week. Even though Ian only had twenty Euros,
he still bought a copy of my book; although I did
give him a special discount.
The
other guy working in the hostel was Brendan. Brendan
offered to sell my book to the tourists as they
came through. He refused my offer of commission
and said that I could buy him a drink instead. The
drinks were provided for him and myself on a night
out in the town a few days later. Brendan reminded
me of a friend back home. Well his face did anyway.
He had large, round, bright blue eyes on a permanently
grinning face, and ears that Mickey Mouse would
be proud to own.
Due
to spending my days in the shopping area of Tullow
Street trying to promote my book and give out flyers,
I didn't get much of a chance to look around. But
after my morning on local radio I decided to search
the town for just what there was to see here.
Just
beyond Tullow street I found the ruins of an old
castle. There wasn't much left of it, just the front
wall flanked by two towers. The guidebook explained
that the castle was built by William Marshall in
the twelfth century. The castle had survived Cromwell's
attentions, but the reason for its condition now
was due to a Dr Middleton having turned it into
an asylum and then blown it up in 1814. He must
have been a relative. He certainly fits the profile.
I
wandered on and crossed the river. To the left was
the Barrow Way, which took me on a nice scenic walk
along the river itself. In 1798 640 United Irish
rebels were killed in the bloodiest fighting of
the rising around what is now Tullow Street. Here
the Irish rebellion was so fierce that the British
officials once had to be paid danger money to live
here among the native Irish. A Celtic High Cross
marks the Croppie Grave, across the river from town,
where most of the bodies were buried.
Carlow
is small, and many might think that there isn't
a whole lot to see around here. People had told
me, 'Carlow is not a tourist town, it's more a college
town.' But that is its charm, I think. It's an attractive,
small and genuine Irish town with genuine friendly
Irish people. In the street I had talked with many
of the locals about my book, and one woman had even
been so kind as to walk off with a handful of my
flyers and give them out to people. The instant
I mentioned that I was going to be on the radio
the next day, the people would respond with, 'Ah
that'll be Tom, now. He's very good.' I hadn't even
mentioned who would be interviewing me.
Many
people I've met complain that in small town Ireland
everyone knows your business. But that's what I
like about it, that sense of closeness. I also liked
the fact that this town wasn't crawling with overweight
tourists loaded down with ice creams, cameras and
bored children. There really was a lot to see here.
Mind you, now that I've written and raved about
this town for all to read on the Internet, then
people will start coming in crowds. The streets
will swell in the summer with tourists. The calm
and happy atmosphere will be destroyed and replaced
with one of exasperation. The peaceful riverside
walk with no longer be peaceful. Oh my god!! What
have I done? Okay, listen here, Carlow is a horrible
town. No, really it is. You don't want to go there
and visit
promise me you wont
Please.
The
Otterholt Riverside Hostel, Kilkenny Road. Tel:
(0503) 30404.